Compiled by Jessica Rubino
From acetone to zinc oxide, we help you figure out what's what on those personal care product labels.
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1,4-dioxane: In cosmetics, 1,4- dioxane is the byproduct of a chemical process used to soften harsh ingredients. Though the U.S. Food and Drug Administration says the levels of 1,4-dioxane found in cosmetics do not pose a hazard to consumers, the National Toxicology Agency says its presence—even as a trace contaminant—is cause for concern, and The Environmental Protection Agency lists it as a probable human carcinogen. A recent study from The Organic Consumer’s Association showed that many "natural" and "organic" brand shampoos, body washes, lotions and other personal care products also contain 1,4-Dioxane. And research from the Environmental Working Group shows that 1,4-dioxane is currently present in many children’s bath products. To avoid the carcinogen, the OCA urges customers to be on the lookout for "myreth," "oleth," "laureth," "ceteareth," any other "eth," "PEG," "polyethylene," "polyethylene glycol," "polyoxyethylene," or "oxynol," on ingredient lists.
acetone: Also known as dimethyl ketone, 2-propanone and beta-ketopropane, this colorless chemical occurs naturally in plants, trees, volcanic gases and forest fires and is formed from the breakdown of body fat. Products containing acetone, like cleaners, nail polish and certain hair and skin products can cause skin, eyes, and lung irritation, according to the Environmental Working Group’s Cosmetic Safety Database and the Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease Registry.
alcohol: This form of ethanol, or flammable liquid, can be harsh and drying to the skin, causing it to produce more oil. It appears as the secondary ingredient in many astringent facial cleansers and toners as “denatured alcohol”, meaning it contains a denaturant that makes it undrinkable, according to the FDA. Look for it in cosmetics under names like SD (specially denatured) Alcohol 23-A, SD Alcohol 40, and SD Alcohol 40-B.
alkaline: The body’s pH, or acid-alkaline ratio is the balance between hydrogen cations (H+) used to form acids. Removing the H+ creates alkalinity, or the base part of your pH. pH is measured on a scale of 0 to 14: Less than 7.0 is acidic, exactly 7.0 is neutral and greater than 7.0 is alkaline. Scrubbing skin excessively and frequently washing with soap (which unlike cleansers that are created to cleanse skin without disrupting its pH, are highly alkaline) can force skin in an alkaline state, causing your body to rebalance itself—which can lead to irritation. Maintaining skin’s natural pH balance by avoiding chemical astringents and harsh scrubbing can help keep it healthy and blemish free.
alkyl benzoate: An emollient created by reacting alcohols with benzoic acid, alkyl benzoate is used in shampoos, body wash, moisturizers and lotions for its conditioning and softening properties. It is given the lowest possible hazard score by the Environmental Working Group.
allantoin: An organic salt created by the oxidation of uric acid—a chemical produced when the body breaks down certain food substances—allantoin is found most often in moisturizers and anti-aging creams. It can help heal wounds, stimulate the growth of healthy tissue, relieve skin irritation and soften the skin, according to Stephen Strassler, president of Reviva Labs. Allantoin can be extracted from the uric acid of cows, but in natural products is more likely to be extracted from plants such as comfrey and bearberry.
allergen: Allergens are substances that the immune system recognizes as foreign or dangerous and can cause an allergic reactions or sensitivities, according to the U.S. National Library of Medicine. When allergens contact the skin or enter the body, they can cause hives, rashes, itching or more severe problems like anaphylaxis, which is sudden and requires immediate medical attention. The National Library of Medicine lists bacteria, viruses, chemicals, dust, drugs (such as antibiotics and serums), foods (like milk, chocolate, strawberries, wheat, nuts and shellfish), perfumes, plants, pollen and smoke as common allergens. Allergens most often found in personal care products include parabens, fragrances, aluminum salts, acrylate, D&C violet No. 2, FD&C blue No. 1 and FD&C green Nos. 1 through 3.
alpha-hydroxy acids: Derived from fruit and milk sugars and often appearing in creams and lotions, AHAs have been found in some studies to counteract damaging effects of sun exposure and aging like wrinkles and spotting by increasing skin’s thickness. However, the FDA reports that AHAs may also cause severe redness, swelling (especially in the eye area), burning, blistering, bleeding, rashes, itching and skin discoloration, and applying an AHA to the skin may make people more susceptible to sun damage, including sunburn.
aluminum: A metallic earth element that resists oxidation. Some forms of aluminum, like aluminum chlorohydrate and aluminum zirconium are used in antiperspirants to block pores and inhibit sweat. According to the American Society of Nephrology, small amounts of aluminum can be absorbed through the skin.
Some research suggests that when absorbed by the skin near the breast, these aluminum-based compounds may cause estrogen-like (hormonal) effects that promote breast cancer cell growth, according to the National Cancer Institute. Other studies have linked the use of aluminum-based antiperspirants to an increased risk for Alzheimer's disease.
ammonia: This colorless gas appears in many household products like window cleaners and personal care products such as hair dyes. Once exposed to open air, liquid ammonia (or ammonia dissolved in water) turns into a gas. According to the Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease Registry, exposure to high levels of ammonia in air may irritate skin, eyes, throat and lungs and can cause coughing and burns.
animal ingredients/animal testing/cruelty-free: No federal law determines the criteria for claiming “cruelty-free,” “against animal testing” or “not tested on animals.” But the Coalition for Consumer Information on Cosmetics has a cruelty-free standard, and PETA and Vegan Action provide a list of animal-derived ingredients and certified vegan products. And www.caringconsumer.com offers a list of companies that have agreed to not conduct animal testing.
antibacterial: Antibacterial agents help stave off infection, treat wounds and alleviate itching. Common antibacterial ingredients in personal care products include lemon balm, lavender, wasabi, neem, organic alcohol, ginger, echinacea, eucalyptus, sage, and shiitake mushroom.
antioxidant: These compounds from plant foods, including beta-carotene, vitamin C and bioflavonoids, fight off cell-attacking free radicals, the unstable molecules your body produces when it’s exposed to environmental toxins or when it breaks down food. By neutralizing free radicals produced by skin in response to sun exposure, antioxidant-rich creams are used to prevent and reduce effects of UV rays like dark patches (or liver spots), fine wrinkles, and rough skin, according to the Beth Israel Deaconess Medical Center and reduce other signs of aging.
antiseptic: Antiseptics inhibit the growth of microorganisms on living tissue. By fighting bacteria and promoting circulation, antiseptics can help eradicate acne and appear innatural deodorants. Natural antiseptics used in PC products include lavender, tea tree oil, lemon, apple cider vinegar and honey.
aromatherapy: Aromatherapy uses essential oils to impact physical, mental, emotional and spiritual balance, according to the National Association for Holistic Aromatherapy. Aromatherapy’s psychological effects include alleviating depression, recharging the mind and body, and promoting relaxation, which may help improve heart health.
artificial color: Artificial colors in cosmetics that are subject to certification are primarily petroleum-derived and are sometimes known as "coal-tar dyes" (coal-tar colors consist of one or more substances that are made from coal-tar or derived from intermediates of the same identity as coal-tar intermediates) or "synthetic-organic" colors, according to the FDA. Coal-tar dyes may cause dermatitis, according to the National Institute of Health. Colors exempt from certification are obtained primarily from mineral, plant or animal sources. Though they’re not subject to batch certification requirements, they’re still considered artificial colors. Makeup labels may list FD&C or D&C, followed by a color and a number (like FD&C yellow No. 5). The FDA deems FD&C colors safe for use in food, drugs and cosmetics and D&C colors safe for drugs and cosmetics. However, D&C violet No. 2, FD&C blue No. 1 and FD&C green Nos. 1 through 3 contain benzene, which can cause irritation or allergic reactions and may increase leukemia risk, according to the American Cancer Society. Some people may have reactions to the artificial dye in makeup, so alternatives like iron oxides in yellow, black, bluish-red or yellowish-red are mixed with titanium dioxide, a white mineral, in natural mineral makeup.
astaxanthin: This naturally occurring carotenoid pigment is a powerful antioxidant harvested from microalgae and also found in salmon. By neutralizing free radicals, it can help prevent sun damage. When applied before sun exposure, astaxanthin protects cells from future damage, and it fights oxidative damage after sun exposure to help prevent signs of aging. Some eye health supplements and moisturizing creams contain this antioxidant.
astringent: Astringents are used topically to shrink or constrict tissue. Aftershaves and toners are common astringent formulations, and key astringent ingredients include witch hazel and alcohol. These substances help close the skin’s cells and are generally used after bathing and before moisturizing.
Ayurveda: This ancient form of holistic healing, which originated in India, considers physical and emotional wellbeing along with external factors and physical processes. Ayurvedic treatments rely heavily on herbs and other plants—including oils and common spices and there are currently, more than 600 herbal formulas and 250 single plant drugs included in the "pharmacy" of Ayurvedic treatments, according to the National Center for Complementary and Alternative Medicine. Discovering what dosha (or body and skin type) you are, can help determine the ingredients that will best nourish skin.